Prague, deep fried cheese and marmalade dressing

We entered the club through the non-descript door of a shabby looking building and descended a dimly lit staircase into a tiny darkened room that was steadily filling with people. At one end was a stage that ran the width of the room. In the centre, taking up most of the space, a makeshift table covered in a black cloth with two record decks, turntables rotating. Bookending the table were two Dobermans, blankly presiding over the milling throng like china ornaments. A Dj stood hunched over the decks, intently adjusting the mixer, completely focused on what he was doing, his head keeping the beat. Another rifled through vinyl in the boxes behind the table.

The venue filled quickly. Beer flowed. I felt the bass move through my body, pulsing steadily as the sound system kicked in and wave after wave of bass and breakbeats took up more and more space in the room. I made my way into the moving mass of bodies and remember thinking I was happy I had lined my stomach.

A couple of hours earlier I had been meandering around the Žižkov district, orienting myself and looking for somewhere to eat. I had dumped by backpack in a hostel that had been recommended by a dj who worked at the illegal radio station that operated out of the apartment above the hostel I stayed at in Budapest. As I turned a corner, I spotted a lit up sign for beer and began to make my way towards it, bumping into Darren, an Australian that I had met in the hostel I stayed in, in Budapest.

Beer, fried cheese and chips arrived without ceremony or pretence. A sizeable portion of chips beside a square of cheese covered in breadcrumbs. Bland looking. Bland tasting. But in the pub dotted with local, middle aged men, drinking without animation, it tasted of Prague in the nineties. I don’t think it even touched the sides, I was so hungry. Darren had heard of a drum & bass night in a club near by and a few drinks later, we stepped into the darkness of the evening and weaved our way towards the club through eerily quiet streets, in the shadow of Žižkov Tower’s looming presence looming over the district.

I don’t think I have eaten fried cheese since that night. As I dipped the cheese into the egg and rolled it in the panko breadcrumbs, the memory hit me with a jolt. Since we went into lockdown in March, memories like this have risen to the surface like gnocchi in a pot of boiling water. Memories that have been squeezed into darkened corners to make space for everyday stresses and to do lists are re-emerging. Since March, my life has become physically smaller and has slowed, creating a space for memories to make their way back to consciousness. And I like it. I like being reminded of someone I used to be.


A bunch of watercress, washed

A few leaves of chicory

100g stilton, cut into small cubes

1 egg, beaten

100g panko breadcrumbs

For the dressing

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp orange marmalade

1 tbsp cider vinegar

Dip the cheese in the beaten egg and roll in the breadcrumbs. You can do this twice to get a good crispy coating.

Make the dressing by heating the cider vinegar and the marmalade over a gentle heat until the marmalade melts. You might want to adjust the ratio of cider and vinegar according to your taste. Remove from the heat and add the oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat the sunflower oil and fry the breadcrumbed cheese until golden.

Place the watercress and chicory on a plate and add the cheese. Drizzle with the dressing.

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